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The Valley of Erdem

Once you understand everything weird and wonderful going round in Erdem Moralioglu’s head, you see right past the beauty of the botanics that he delivers so successfully every year, and get to know the ‘prairie madness’ that is hiding under that layer of sheer beauty. 

The designer filled out a darkly lit theatre in London and and put on a show to the sounds of strings. We were taken right back to the 1800s, when single and widowed women were given the right to own their own plot of land in America, providing they stayed there 5 years. European women packed up their bags and left for another life, but instead developed severe loneliness and many forms of anxiety.

There are elements that certainly see references to Austrian culture: pointed kitten heels in either black or embroided creams with red and green florals. This european girl consistently followed right up to the neck, literally, with high gathered necklines, eyelet fastenings and black ribbons tied tight - which could only make you wonder about the connotations.

But taking it away from the 1800s - balloon cuffs and layers and layers of sheer giving the dresses a certain flare, give references to modern culture, and the possibility of the sixties and seventies sticking around a little longer in SS16. 

Erdem once again managed to create a beautiful collection, that could still be admired at just a glance. Geometric cut aways revealing the collarbones, arms and torso give the peices a quiet sex appeal. Sparks of prettiness showed in lace hemlines and floating silhouettes, reminiscent to Valley of the Dolls. “a good girl with a million dollar face and all the bad breaks” - a quote from the film trailer, a coincidently, a very good way to describe that personality Erdem created that day. The collection creates the physical beauty of a woman, only this time he gave us a second layer to the woman the designer is building, powerfully telling the story of women lost in their mind.

The colour palette is predominantly pastels, whether it’s cream or blue with metallic prints or red and blue embroidery. But the finale dress set the bar, and gave quite a quite a haunting end to the tale Erdem had just told. The designer had created what looked like a black swan, draping round the neck and feathering to a skirt, giving the visuals a suddenly  gothic conclusion, making us think back to the dark end to those widows in the west of America. 


It seems that every season Erdem still manages to show us something new and I’m not necessarily talking visuals. While still holding onto his aesthetic, he gives us a new layer to a personality he knows so well. The melancholy of the show certainly brought the show a depth of sadness, but still, as always made the Erdem woman 100 times more desirable. 





Unknown

19 year old fashion journalism student livin' in London My corner of the internet where I am free to say whatever the hell is on my mind... It could get weird. Also some proper fancy shit from time to time i.e.. interviews, reviews and profiles.

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